Ultimate Guide to Kyrgyzstan’s Most Beautiful Lake: Kel Suu

Kel Suu, a breathtaking turquoise lake in Kyrgyzstan’s Naryn region, is one of the most beautiful alpine lakes in Central Asia. 

With raging rivers carving the valley, and jagged rock formations that cascade into the sky, Kel Suu (also known as Köl-Suu) is an incredible place to add to your Kyrgyzstan bucket list. 

Driving into the Kok-Kiya valley, the gateway to Kel Suu lake, was an unforgettable mixture of Kyrgyzstan’s postcard landscapes from vast, grassy plains with scattered yurt camps, to towering, awe-inspiring mountains. 

While the journey to Kel Suu is treacherous – requiring a sturdy 4X4 vehicle and a confident driver (lots of bumpy, dirt roads!) – the reward for the road trip is a memorable collection of picture-perfect landscapes.

At Kel Suu, dramatic, jagged cliffs meet surreal turquoise alpine water. 

This ultimate guide to Kyrgyzstan’s most beautiful lake, Kel Suu, will cover everything you need to know before visiting the alpine lake, including how to get permits (required!), where to stay in the Kok-Kiya valley, and MORE!

What Makes Kel Suu So Special?

If you’ve sifted through a variety of Kyrgyzstan Google Images or spent time scrolling through Kyrgyzstan Tik-Toks, you’ve probably gotten a glimpse of Kel Suu lake: a magical turquoise lake, surrounded by grey, jagged rock formations, that sits at nearly 3600m.

Kel Suu lake is a special place nearly untouched by tourism due to its remote location and the border permit requirements associated with visiting the lake. 

Before visiting Kel Suu lake, an official border permit must be acquired at least a week in advance.

Even with a permit, only the most adventurous of travelers will make the treacherous journey from Naryn to the Kok-Kiya valley – the start of the trek – to the breathtaking alpine lake.

Depending on the conditions of the dirt road getting to the valley, the drive can take five OR MORE hours. 

But Kel Suu’s striking, untouched beauty and dramatic scenery makes it one of Kyrgyzstan’s most special places! If you have extra time in your Kyrgyzstan itinerary, I highly recommend adding a few days to visit Kel Suu lake! 

This alluring alpine lake was one of my favorite places in Kyrgyzstan.

How to Get to Kok-Kiya Valley

The Gateway to Kel Suu

From Bishkek to Naryn

The drive from Kyrgyzstan’s capital city, Bishkek, to Naryn, is approximately five hours. 

I don’t recommend driving directly from Bishkek to Kok-Kiya valley in one day because of uneven road conditions. What seems like a few hours on Google Maps could actually be several additional hours due to the conditions of the dirt road!

If you’re planning on visiting Song Kol or other areas of Kyrgyzstan, there are lots of ways to break up the drive from Bishkek to Naryn.

For my Kyrgyzstan itinerary, I first visited Song Kul for four days, then drove from Kyzart to a small village outside of Naryn called Tash Bashat and stayed for a night. The following day I began the journey from Naryn to Kok-Kiya with my group. 

From Naryn to Kok Kiya Valley

Most travelers will start their road trip to Kel Suu from Naryn. The drive from Naryn to Kel Suu takes around five hours or longer, depending on the road conditions.

The best way to get to the Kok-Kiya valley is to hire a private driver or join a local tour group heading to Kel Suu.

Due to the rugged road conditions, a 4X4 vehicle is required to get to the Kok-Kiya valley – buses and large vans commonly used for tour groups traveling around Song Kul are unable to get to the Kok-Kiya valley.

In my Kyrgyzstan research, I’ve found Reddit to be a great place to find other travelers to split the cost of a private driver! Otherwise, a private tour with a local company or reaching out to the Community-Based Tourism (CBT) Initiative of Naryn is a great way to meet other adventurous travelers on your journey to Kel Suu. 

Hostels and guesthouses in Bishkek and Naryn are great places to meet other travelers to plan adventures with.

How to Get a Border Permit for Kel Suu

Kyrgyzstan’s Naryn region is close to the border of China, therefore a permit is required to travel to areas near the border – including Kel Suu.

As you drive to Kok-Kiya valley, you’ll pass by military checkpoints established to maintain security and monitor movement to and from the border areas of Kyrgyzstan. 

Contacting the CBT Initiative of Naryn (Community Based Tourism) is the best way to secure border permits for your journey to Kel Suu. 

This website also includes instructions on where to pick up your permit in Naryn (or Bishkek).

You’ll need to apply for permits at least a week prior to your drive to the Kok-Kiya valley. A clear photo of your valid passport is required to get the permit. 

Was the Military Checkpoint Scary?

I’ll be honest, when we first pulled up to the military checkpoint to check our Kel Suu permits, I was nervous we wouldn’t be allowed to cross, for one reason or another.

Our guide had jokingly told us to “be serious”, so I figured that one wrong move would send us back to Naryn. 

However, after border control reviewed our group’s permits and we were free to pass, our guide jokingly told us that he was messing with us, just to scare us…тамаша (tamasha – jokes) he said! We had nothing to worry about since we got the necessary permits!

NOTE: Make sure your driver also has a valid permit too!

Where to Stay in the Kok-Kiya Valley

After the long drive from Naryn to Kok-Kiya valley – which features beautiful rolling hills decorated with livestock and horses, and postcard-worthy mountain passes – you’ll want a comfortable place to rest before your trek the following day. 

I stayed in Jyrgal Yurt Camp and Guesthouse which features both traditional yurt stays or a bed in the “main lodge” – the guesthouse. 

This guesthouse featured a beautiful dining hall with nearly-360° views of the surrounding valley and the mountains that ascend over it. 

There’s lots of signatures and scribbles all over the wooden walls from past travelers! Signing the wall reminded me of summer gymnastics camp where we would write all over the walls of our cabins.

My room in Jyrgal Guesthouse featured electricity, a rare commodity in the remote areas of Kyrgyzstan, and a flushing toilet. 

With the opportunity to try on traditional Kyrgyz clothing and prance around the valley, this yurt camp and guesthouse was one of my favorites in Kyrgyzstan. 

If you’d prefer to camp, there are many places where you can pitch a tent. Be prepared for temperatures to drop significantly at night, even during peak summer when the days are warm!

How to Get to Kel Suu Lake on Horseback or Foot

Whether you choose to horseback ride to Kel Suu lake or hike the trail on foot, the journey to Kyrgyzstan’s most beautiful alpine lake follows a similar trail. 

From Kok-Kiya valley, the trek is approximately 9km each way, and takes ~3-4 hours on foot or one hour (each way) on horseback (even faster if you gallop!).

I had the opportunity to ride to Kel Suu lake on horseback. As the horses crossed through flowing rivers and galloped along the lush, green valleys, I felt incredibly lucky to have the opportunity to ride to the lake on horseback. 

If you want to journey to Kel Suu on horseback, many of the yurt camps have “horse taxis” – horses for rent. A knowledgeable local guide will accompany you on your horse trek. 

The journey to Kel Suu on foot is an incredibly pleasant hike, starting out easy as you traverse along the valley. Gradually, you’ll climb ~300 meters to Kel Suu lake. Hiking poles, boots, and lots of water is recommended!

There are so many beautiful areas for photos in the Kok-Kiya valley! The trek to Kel Suu is one of Kyrgyzstan’s most scenic hikes!

Best Time to Visit Kel Suu

The best time to visit Kel Suu and the Kok-Kiya valley is during the summer months in Kyrgyzstan. 

June – early September is the warmest time period for this alpine lake. However, as the sun sets, the summer nights become chilly!

I spent three days in the Kok Kiya valley during the end of June, and everyday I wore my fleece-lined hiking pants, a long-sleeved shirt, and multiple jackets. 

The weather can change in an instant at Kel Suu lake. Within the span of an hour, I experienced blazing hot sun (bring sunscreen!) AND a windy snow storm. With nowhere to seek shelter at Kel Suu, other that a few rocks, water-proof pants and jackets will be your best accessories.

While Kel Suu can be visited during the snowy winter months, it is not recommended to drive to the Kok Kiya valley without an experienced guide. Winter weather in Kyrgyzstan’s high-elevation regions can be even more unpredictable than the summer weather. 

If you plan to visit Kel Suu during the fall or winter months, travel with a knowledgeable guide and come prepared with the necessary gear!

Kel Suu Boat Ride (Is it Worth It?)

Along the rocky shoreline of Kel Suu, you’ll see a collection of small boats. 

These boats are owned by experienced boat guides who bring travelers on an adventure along the turquoise water of Kel Suu lake.

A Kel Suu boat ride is the perfect way to journey through the monumental rock formations that make the turquoise alpine lake so breathtaking – this is an awe-inspiring boat ride that rivals those offered in the Norwegian fjords.

For our small group of four, our boat ride to the opposite end of Kel Suu lake was ~5000 som, total (~15$ USD each). You can expect to pay ~1000-1250 som per person for a 20-30 minute boat ride. 

I highly recommend the Kel Suu boat ride to discover the incredible rock formations surrounding Kyrgyzstan’s most beautiful alpine lake. Our private boat ride made it feel like the five of us – our adventurous group of four and the boat captain – were the only people in the world. 

We are minuscule in this beautiful, infinite universe – a truly liberating feeling!

Are Drones Permitted at Kel Suu Lake?

Currently in Kyrgyzstan, there are no official drone regulations. 

However, if you plan to fly your drone in Kyrgyzstan or Kel Suu lake, here are a few important considerations to keep in mind:

Flying a drone at Kel Suu lake is currently permitted. However, always check with the local Aviation Authority to confirm whether or not flight is permitted!

Final Thoughts: Is Kel Suu Lake Worth Visiting?

Despite the treacherous journey to and from Kok Kiya valley, Kel Suu lake is definitely WORTH adding to your Kyrgyzstan itinerary. 

With its surreal turquoise water and the monumental, jagged rock formations, Kel Suu lake is a mind-blowing hike – one of the best in Kyrgyzstan!

Whether you plan to hike to the lake, or adventure there on horseback (my recommendation), you’ll enjoy every moment traversing the landscapes leading to the unforgettable alpine lake!